Climbing 2020 Tokyo Olympic Review

Men’s Combined

Bassa Mawem (France) set the best time in speed qualifying with a 5.45. Two other climbers went under six seconds in Tomoe Narasaki (Japan) and Mickael Mawem (France). In the bouldering stage, it was Mickael Mawem, ahead of Narasaki and Adam Ondra (Czech Republic). Jakob Schubert (Austria) led Colin Duffy (United States) and Alberto Ginez Lopez (Spain) in the lead phase. The aforementioned seven were joined by Nathaniel Coleman (United States) in the final. Bassa Mawem did not make the final given a bicep injury. In his absence, the speed climbing was more open. It was Ginez Lopez who took victory, ahead of Narasaki with Mawem in third, ahead of Ondra. Coleman won the bouldering event, ahead of Mawem and Narasaki. This meant entering the last discipline those three were tied on 6, with Gines Lopez on 7. Narasaki took the lead on 33, only for Coleman to follow with a 34. Ondra put himself into the lead with a 43, with Gines only getting to 38. Duffy got to 40, before Schubert gave himself a chance by reaching the top of the lead course. In the end, winning the speed event got Gines Lopez the victory on 28. Coleman was second on 30, whilst Schubert scored 35 and Narasaki 36.

🥇Alberto Gines Lopez 🇪🇸

🥈Nathaniel Coleman 🇺🇸

🥉Jakob Schubert 🇦🇹

Women’s Combined

Aleksandra Miroslaw (Poland) was the winner of the speed qualification event ahead of Anouck Jaubert (France) and Song Yiling (China). Janja Garnbret (Slovenia) beat Brooke Raboutou (United States) in the bouldering discipline. Seo Chae-hyun (South Korea) took a massive victory in the lead phase, ahead of Jessica Pilz (Austria). In the final, as expected the speed contest came down to Jaubert and Miroslaw, with Miroslaw setting a world record to take the victory. Garnbret dominated the bouldering event, the only climber to reach the top of any walls. Behind her was Raboutou again. That meant entering the lead climb, Garnbret led on 5, with Miroslaw on 8, Miho Nonaka (Japan) on 9, Jaubert on 12, Raboutou on 14 and Akiyo Noguchi (Japan) on 16. Garnbret took the lead, in the lead event with the 37th hold reached. The only one who could finish above her was Nonaka. She could only get to 21 which was not enough. Garnbret took the win, with a total score of 5, ahead of Nonaka and Noguchi.

🥇Janja Garnbret 🇸🇮

🥈Miho Nonaka 🇯🇵

🥉Akiyo Noguchi 🇯🇵