Men’s Combined
Sorato Anraku (Japan) led the qualifying, mainly on the back of a strong boulder performance. Alberto Gines Lopez (Spain) led in the lead to save him an after a below-par boulder round. In the final Anraku would lead the boulder stage ahead of Colin Duffy (United States) and Toby Roberts (Great Britain) Duffy would go into the lead by virtue of being the first contender on the lead stage. Jakob Schubert (Austria) would score 96 on the lead which would guarantee him a medal. Roberts got to 92.1 to put pressure on Anraku. He could only score 76.1 allowing the gold to go to Roberts.
🥇Toby Roberts 🇬🇧
🥈Sorato Anraku 🇯🇵
🥉Jakob Schubert 🇦🇹
I got the medalists correct but in the wrong order. I though Schubert would be stronger
Men’s Speed
Veddriq Leonardo (Indonesia) would set a world record in the seeding round, finishing ahead of Amir Maimuratov(Kazakhstan). It did not last long with Sam Watson (United States) beating it in the elimination heats. Leonard went quickest in the quarter finals and was joined by Watson, Wu Peng (China) and Reza Alipour (Iran) in the semi finals. Peng would beat Watson in the opening semi final with Leonardo taking the other in a personal best time. Watson would break the world record again in the bronze medal matchup. In the final Peng seemed to get the faster start but it was Leonard who was able to get the win by 0.02, again setting a personal best.
🥇Veddriq Leonardo 🇮🇩
🥈Wu Peng 🇨🇳
🥉Sam Watson 🇺🇸
I called the final correct but went with the wrong victor.
Women’s Combined
Janja Garnbret (Slovenia) led qualifying by almost forty points, scoring over 90 in both disciplines. Ai Mori (Japan) was the only other to score over 90 in either discipline. Garnbret led the bouldering stage of the event with an 84.40 only slightly ahead of Brooke Raboutou (United States) on 84.0. Mori would score 96.10 on the lead but Raboutou managed 72.0 to guarantee herself a medal. Jessica Pilz (Austria) scored 88.1 to guarantee herself a medal. Garnbret would score 84.1 to win gold.
🥇Janja Garnbret 🇸🇮
🥈Brooke Raboutou 🇺🇸
🥉Jessica Pilz 🇦🇹
Garnbret was an obvious pick to win here. I mentioned Raboutou as a strong boulder participant and Mori as being good in the lead.
Women’s Speed
It was a world record for Aleksandra Miroslaw (Poland) in the seeding round with six of the top seven setting personal bests. Miroslaw won the first quarter final. The other winners were Aleksandra Kalucka (Poland), Rajiah Sallsabillah (Indonesia) and Deng Lijuan (China) who beat Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (Indonesia) by just 0.006. In the semis, the Polish pair would clash with Miroslaw winning by 0.15. The second was even closer and it was Lijuan winning by 0.3, holding off fast-finishing Sallsabillah. Kalucka took bronze as Sallsabillah faltered early. In the final, Lijuan looked to have the early lead but Miroslaw got the entire finish, winning by 0.08
🥇Aleksandra Miroslaw 🇵🇱
🥈Deng Lijuan 🇨🇳
🥉Aleksandra Kalucka 🇵🇱
Miroslaw was the best performer by some way. I still don’t think there is much between the two medalists, Hunt or the Indonesian pair and on another day any one could have beaten the other.
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