Climbing 2024 Paris Olympics Preview

Men’s Combined

Sorato Anraku (Japan) topped qualifying thanks to a strong boulder performance. Alberto Gines Lopez (Spain) recovered from a below-par boulder round by leading in the lead stage. In the final, Anraku led the boulder stage ahead of Colin Duffy (United States) and Toby Roberts (Great Britain) Duffy briefly took the overall lead by virtue of being the first contender on the lead stage. Jakob Schubert (Austria) then posted 96 on the lead which guaranteed him a medal. Roberts climbed to 92.1, putting pressure on Anraku. Anraku could only score 76.1 allowing the gold to go to Roberts.

🥇Toby Roberts 🇬🇧

🥈Sorato Anraku 🇯🇵

🥉Jakob Schubert 🇦🇹

Prediction analysis; 3 medalists correct, 1 perfect prediction 

I got the medalists correct but in the wrong order. I though Schubert would be stronger 

Men’s Speed

Veddriq Leonardo (Indonesia) set a world record in the seeding round, finishing ahead of Amir Maimuratov (Kazakhstan). It did not last long with Sam Watson (United States) beating it in the elimination heats. Leonardo posted the fastest time in the quarter finals and was joined by Watson, Wu Peng (China) and Reza Alipour (Iran) in the semi finals. Peng defeated Watson in the opening semi final with Leonardo taking the second in a personal best time. Watson again broke the world record in the bronze medal matchup. In the final, Peng seemed to get the faster start but it Leonardo surged back to get the win by 0.02, again setting a personal best. 

🥇Veddriq Leonardo 🇮🇩

🥈Wu Peng 🇨🇳

🥉Sam Watson 🇺🇸

Prediction analysis; 3 medalist correct, 1 perfect prediction 

I called the final correct but went with the wrong victor. 

Women’s Combined

Janja Garnbret (Slovenia) dominated qualification, leading by almost forty points after scoring over 90 in both disciplines. Ai Mori (Japan) was the only other climber to break 90 in either discipline. In the final, Garnbret led the bouldering stage of the event with an 84.40 only slightly ahead of Brooke Raboutou (United States) on 84.0. Mori scored 96.10 on the lead but Raboutou managed 72.0 to guarantee herself a medal. Jessica Pilz (Austria) scored 88.1 to guarantee herself a medal. Garnbret sealed gold with an 84.1.

🥇Janja Garnbret 🇸🇮

🥈Brooke Raboutou 🇺🇸

🥉Jessica Pilz 🇦🇹

Prediction analysis; 2 medalist correct, 1 perfect prediction 

Garnbret was an obvious pick to win here. I mentioned Raboutou as a strong boulder participant and Mori as being good in the lead. 

Women’s Speed

Aleksandra Miroslaw (Poland) set a world record in the seeding round with six of the top seven setting personal bests. Miroslaw won the first quarter final. The other winners were Aleksandra Kalucka (Poland), Rajiah Sallsabillah (Indonesia) and Deng Lijuan (China) who beat Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (Indonesia) by just 0.006. In the semis, the Polish pair clashed with Miroslaw winning by 0.15. The second was even closer with Lijuan winning by 0.03, holding off fast-finishing Sallsabillah. Kalucka took bronze as Sallsabillah faltered early. In the final, Lijuan looked to have the early lead but Miroslaw powered through the finish, winning by 0.08

🥇Aleksandra Miroslaw 🇵🇱

🥈Deng Lijuan 🇨🇳

🥉Aleksandra Kalucka 🇵🇱

Prediction analysis; 1 medalist correct, 1 perfect prediction 

Miroslaw was the best performer by some way. I still don’t think there is much between the two medalists, Hunt or the Indonesian pair and on another day any one could have beaten the other.